WINE OF VERONA

Veronas classic wines are bona fide natives. Soave, from Garganega and Trebbiano di Soave, is usually dry and still, though sparkling and sweet Recioto versions are also produced. Soave Superiore and Recioto di Soave have been promoted to DOCG, while regular Soave remains DOC. The most popular of Italian dry whites ranks third after Chianti and Asti in volume among classified wines.

Valpolicella, made from a blend of Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara grapes, has been fourth in volume among DOCs. Valpolicella is noted as a hearty red to drink relatively young, though grapes from its vineyards in the hills north of Verona can also be partly dried and made into the richly dry Amarone della Valpolicella or the opulently sweet Recioto della Valpolicella.

Amarone, amply structured and long on the palate, ranks among Italy?s most authoritative red wines with a list of admirers growing around the world. It is unquestionably one of the great red wines for aging.

Bardolino, from the same basic grapes as Valpolicella, is enviably easy to drink, whether in the red Superiore, which has become DOCG, or the dark pink Chiaretto version. Bardolino has also gained in popularity as a Vino Novello, another category in which Veneto leads production in Italy. Bardolino, from the shores of Lake Garda, also ranks high in terms of volume among classified wines.

Another Veronese DOC wine of note is Bianco di Custoza, a crisp white much appreciated in northern Italy. A distinctive DOC produced between Verona and Vicenza is Lessini Durello, a steely dry white, usually sparkling, that seems destined for wider recognition. The Veronese also make alternative wines of distinction, especially the reds produced by the so-called ripasso method in which the basic Valpolicella is refermented with the pomace of Amarone to gain body and structure.

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